French luxury’s China pain may be more evenly felt
The author is a Reuters Breakingviews columnist. The opinions expressed are his own.
By Pierre Briancon
LONDON, July 24 (Reuters Breakingviews) -France’s luxury Big 3 fear catching “a stray bullet” if the scuffle between the European Union and China over electric car subsidies escalates. With growth at $360 billion LVMH LVMH.PA, $230 billion Hermès International HRMS.PA and $40 billion Kering PRTP.PA subdued in the first half of the year, that shouldn’t be their only concern. And Hermès, the most dependent of the three on Chinese sales, may occupy an unfamiliar position at the head of the firing line.
The share prices of Hermès, LVMH and Gucci owner Kering have tanked by 20%, 12% and 25% respectively since March. That marked the end of a long post-pandemic boom in which some top lines expanded at a double-digit annual clip. Louis Vuitton bags and Dior fashion owner LVMH grew sales 13% in 2023. On Tuesday it said that revenue had shrunk by 1% in the first half of the year, including a 2% fall at the fashion and leather goods unit that accounts for about half the group’s sales.
The rest of the year doesn’t look much better for the three French groups. Hermès, which booked 47% of its sales last year in the region described as Asia excluding Japan, looks more exposed. Comparable numbers for LVMH and Kering are 31% and 35%, respectively. Beijing has acknowledged it needs to act to boost growth back to previous 6% or more annual rates. But the nature and amplitude of the stimulus remain unclear after the Communist Party’s latest plenum.
LVMH, maker of Hennessy cognac, might be the first hit if Beijing gets serious on its threat to tax French brandy in response to EU EV tariffs. But Bernard Arnault’s group will not be the only casualty, because the threat isn’t just about tariffs. Risks include the ongoing campaign of luxury shame by the ruling Communist Party, which has revived the 1950s Maoist concept of “common prosperity” to promote the virtues of restraint and modesty, frowning upon the flaunting of wealth and aspirational spending.
Here, Hermès may be vulnerable. In the past, the maker of timeless high-end leather goods such as the Birkin bag could rely on rich customers to keep buying their wares even amid slower growth that hobbled consumers fare sold by Kering. But if luxury itself is in the spotlight, the group may have a problem.
Hermès still sported a 42% operating margin in 2023, far ahead of LVMH’s 23% and Kering’s 24%, and this discrepancy of operating performances may persist in the second half of this year, Jefferies analysts noted. But investors could start reflecting on the valuation of the Big 3, and wonder whether Hermès should trade at 44 times forward earnings — or even LVMH at 22 times — without the growth rates those multiples imply.
Follow @pierrebri on X
CONTEXT NEWS
Shares in French luxury giant LVMH were down by more than 6% on July 24 after the world’s largest luxury group the day before announced second-quarter sales that missed consensus estimates.
The conglomerate that encompasses Louis Vuitton bags, the Dior fashion house and Moet & Chandon champagne reported its quarterly sales rose 1% year on year to 20.98 billion euros, undershooting the 21.6 billion expected by analysts polled by LSEG.
The earnings miss also weighed on other luxury stocks, with Hermès International down around 3% and Kering off by more than 4%.
Total returns of France's luxury Big 3 since the end of Covid https://reut.rs/4ffQZ0r
Editing by George Hay and Streisand Neto
免责声明: XM Group仅提供在线交易平台的执行服务和访问权限，并允许个人查看和/或使用网站或网站所提供的内容，但无意进行任何更改或扩展，也不会更改或扩展其服务和访问权限。所有访问和使用权限，将受下列条款与条例约束：(i) 条款与条例；(ii) 风险提示；以及(iii) 完整免责声明。请注意，网站所提供的所有讯息，仅限一般资讯用途。此外，XM所有在线交易平台的内容并不构成，也不能被用于任何未经授权的金融市场交易邀约和/或邀请。金融市场交易对于您的投资资本含有重大风险。
所有在线交易平台所发布的资料，仅适用于教育/资讯类用途，不包含也不应被视为用于金融、投资税或交易相关咨询和建议，或是交易价格纪录，或是任何金融商品或非应邀途径的金融相关优惠的交易邀约或邀请。
本网站上由XM和第三方供应商所提供的所有内容，包括意见、新闻、研究、分析、价格、其他资讯和第三方网站链接，皆保持不变，并作为一般市场评论所提供，而非投资性建议。所有在线交易平台所发布的资料，仅适用于教育/资讯类用途，不包含也不应被视为适用于金融、投资税或交易相关咨询和建议，或是交易价格纪录，或是任何金融商品或非应邀途径的金融相关优惠的交易邀约或邀请。请确保您已阅读并完全理解，XM非独立投资研究提示和风险提示相关资讯，更多详情请点击 这里。
